New classification system for Rioja not strict enough, claims producer
The new Rioja classification”isn’t strict enough” according to a leading producer who claimed that it helped the big names the most.
“The new classification is positive in that it’s good to question whether things can be done in a better way, but I don’t think the requrements are strict engouh with regard to things like yields, and if they are too easy to achieve then it’s really helping the big names the most,” José Ramón Urtasun, co-owner of boutique Rioja Alavesa estate Remirez de Ganuza, told the Drinks Business.
He said that ultimately “time would tell” whether the new classification would be a positive move for the region, but added that “anything that raises the profile of the DO is a good thing.”
“It’s a positive change that Rioja has more to play with and talk about than just Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva. We focus too much on barrel ageing in Rioja and should be more focused on the land.”
He questioned if there was a move to a more Burgundian style system, who will grade and determine the different quality levels of vineyards, adding he was . unsure as to whether he wanted his vineyard to be part of the new single vineyard classification system.
“We work with around 230 small plots and like to make wines with grapes from a lot of these plots, so our philosophy is more about blending rather than single vineyard wines, although we have two in our portfolio,” he added.
To qualify as a single vineyard wine in Rioja, the estate needs to be able to demonstrate long-time ownership of the site, which much be over 35 years old. Yields need to be at least 20% below those allowed for the region and the volume of wine for each 100 kg of grapes must be 65%. Grapes need to be hand harvested and production traceability will also be a requirement.
As for the impact the new classification will have on consumers, Urtasun is unsure whether it will have much effect. “It’s hard to know whether the consumer will understand the changes – a lot of consumers don’t even know what ‘Reserva’ means.
“The issue with Rioja at the moment is that too many consumers see the wines as good value entry level wines and don’t understand why they should have to pay €15 for a Rioja. “They feel they should be paying around €6 a bottle for it, but quality Rioja is expensive to produce. The price perception of Spanish wines globally is a problem for us at the moment."
Rioja should focus less on value and more on quality, he added.